An Emulsifier for High Sensory Formulas Containing up to 60% of Oil
Conference on Engineering Cosmetics and Consumer Products
2019
Conference on Engineering Cosmetics and Consumer Products (ECCP 2019)
Poster Session
Poster Session
Saturday, November 9, 2019 - 5:00pm to 6:00pm
To emulsify high oil content in a minimalist approach has always been the challenging part to develop rich and nourishing finish products considering the sensory aspect with non-greasy and non-tacky after feel.StarDesign™ Power has been developed by Cargill Beauty to answer this customer demand and to bring to the market a wide texture palette. StarDesign™ Power is a patented combination of two modified starches from sustainable waxy corn origin. It was developed and optimized using a mixture experimental design of 70 trials.The objective of this study was to investigate the emulsification capacity of StarDesign™ Power and the effect of oil content (5 to 60%) on size distribution and stability of oil-in-water emulsions. Emulsions were prepared with 3, 4, and 6% w/w of StarDesign™ Power with and without hydrocolloid. Physico-chemical characterization has been performed to evaluate the stability of the formulas: Size distribution, viscosity, rheology profile and instability index from the Lumizizer. It was found that whatever the amount of StarDesign™ Power (3, 4 or 6%) with and without hydrocolloid, we observed an increase of viscosity starting from 30% of oil. This viscosity improvement is correlated to a decrease of droplets size and polydispersity.On the other hand, we have investigated the rheological behavior and the elastic network of emulsions with StarDesign™ Power at 3, 4 and 6% for 0, 30 and 50% of oil. The ratio G’/G’’ was increased by 2 from 30% to 50% of oil. The increase of the elastic modulus G’ is highlighting the capability of the emulsion to recover immediately after a deformation and consequently to have better long-term stability. StarDesign™ Power decreases the interfacial tension and creates a viscous and suspending structured network in the water phase avoiding droplets coalescence and their migration and improving therefore the emulsion stability.